Finding Matcha’s Historical past at an Uji Tea Rite


Japanese garden with a cherry blossom tree and traditional wooden building.

We attend a Chanoyu (tea rite) in Uji, a small the town in Japan well-known for its matcha.

BY TANYA NANETTI
SENIOR ONLINE CORRESPONDENT

Footage via Tanya Nanetti

Within the years I spent operating at the back of a specialty-coffee counter, I had the chance to witness the upward thrust of matcha. Inside a decade it went (a minimum of in Europe) from being reasonably peculiar to changing into a brand new well being pattern. I spotted that certainly there used to be a lot more to understand.

Going To Uji

Whilst in Japan, I determined to make a temporary prevent in Uji—a small the town close to Kyoto regularly described as Japan’s “matcha capital“—which looked like the easiest position to deepen my wisdom of matcha. There, it appears, the entirety used to be matcha-related: outdated teahouses promoting pricey and uncommon matcha, tea ceremonies held virtually all over, matcha cookies and ice cream, even bowls of ramen and gyoza dumplings that incorporated matcha of their elements!

We determined on a Chanoyu (tea rite) at Taiho-An, the Uji Town Tea Rite Area. It sounded attention-grabbing, simple to e book, unique, and reasonably priced: precisely what we have been in search of.

tickets for the tea ceremony show a a garden on the front.
Taiho-An, the Uji Town Tea Rite Area, will pay homage to Uji’s lengthy heritage of matcha making.

On a heat spring morning, a brief educate experience from Osaka introduced us to Uji. We took a protracted stroll alongside the river, admiring the cherry timber in complete bloom, and visited the pretty Byodo-In, an imposing Buddhist temple constructed greater than 1,000 years in the past. And we couldn’t withstand making an attempt a scrumptious matcha ice cream.

In spite of everything it used to be time to make our option to Taiho-An to be told extra about Uji’s pleasure and pleasure, its well-known matcha this is regularly regarded as the highest-quality matcha to be had.

Sooner than the tea rite, we took a couple of mins to talk with the great girl on the Taiho-An counter, who defined how matcha got here to Uji and why it turned into so standard.

A blue table with several bowls and a water pitcher, whisks, and other utensils.
The Chanoyu setup, looking forward to the tea grasp.

Matcha Makes Its Method to Japan

“The origins of matcha can also be traced again to China the place, within the 7th century, tea leaves have been steamed and pressed into bricks for simple transportation and business,“ she mentioned. “Nevertheless it used to be a couple of centuries later, within the twelfth century, {that a} Eastern Buddhist monk named Eisai returned to Japan after years of research in China, bringing with him Zen Buddhist strategies of creating powdered inexperienced tea and a handful of tea seeds.“ As soon as he reached Kyoto and its surrounding villages, the ones seeds, that have been already regarded as some of the absolute best high quality in all of Japan, have been planted in temple grounds. They thrived within the Uji house because of its distinctive geographic traits: fertile soil, shut proximity to the Uji River, and a misty local weather.

No longer best is the tea particular, however so is its means of cultivation. Round 1600, the process developed from direct publicity to daylight (which ended in a bitter, sour tea) to cultivation in shady prerequisites for a couple of weeks earlier than harvest. This ends up in the top of the range and sweeter, extra subtle taste now related to Uji matcha. Then, after harvesting, the tea leaves are steamed, dried with out rubbing, and floor into powder.

A bowl, whisk, curved wooden matcha scoop, and a small round object.
A regular matcha setup, with bowl and whisk.

From Rite to Commoners

In only some centuries matcha went from getting used for spiritual ceremonies in temples to being a luxurious commodity, produced in restricted amounts and reserved for the the Aristocracy. Regularly it won recognition some of the samurai magnificence (who drank it to stick alert and centered), and in the end amongst most of the people.

Then, within the sixteenth century, a Zen scholar named Murata Juko introduced in combination a number of fragmented pillars of the tea rite right into a formalized ritual. The observe used to be quickly made much more standard via Zen grasp Sen no Riky?, whose sons created the 3 primary faculties of the Eastern tea rite, which can be nonetheless energetic these days in proceeding to go at the wisdom of tea preparation.

Sen no Riky?, recognized these days as probably the most respected ancient determine within the Eastern tea rite, is regarded as the “father“ of Chanoyu (the best way of tea). He used to be the primary to explain its 4 fundamental ideas: Team spirit (Wa), Admire (Kei), Purity (Sei), and Tranquility (Jaku).

A small green dessert.
The rite starts with a deal with.

The Chanoyu

At that time, with a deeper figuring out of matcha, it used to be time to start the true rite.

Led within a small room, we took our seats as prompt and have been straight away greeted via a small candy deal with, tasty and best to stability the depth of the incoming matcha.

Then the Chanoyu started. The tea grasp, in general silence, proceeded with a sequence of formality actions. In an issue of mins, she wiped clean all of the utensils, poured a beneficiant quantity of matcha into a big bowl, added scorching water, and whisked it with knowledgeable hand. As soon as it turned into frothy and fairly bubbly, she served it, repeating the process for all of the visitors.

As soon as the matcha used to be inebriated, the visitors attempted to copy what the tea grasp had completed, whisking and consuming our ceremonial matcha. Even after following all of the steps precisely, the matcha used to be nonetheless totally other from the only ready via the tea grasp! We discovered that even the smallest trade in actions made a distinction within the end result; there used to be surely a lot more to be told.

The author whisks match with water in a white bowl on a tray.
Whisking matcha all through the second one portion of the rite.

A Manner of Lifestyles

As soon as the rite used to be over, we returned to the primary corridor, thrilled via the revel in however keen to be told extra. Finally, as our host concluded, the tea rite isn’t just about consuming tea: “This is a rite that encourages mindfulness and a way of tranquility, a lifestyle and a mirrored image of the philosophy of Zen Buddhism, a tradition that adjustments following the converting seasons.“

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Tanya Nanetti (she/her) is a specialty-coffee barista, a traveler, and a dreamer. When she’s no longer at the back of the espresso device (or visiting some hidden nook of the sector), she’s busy writing for Espresso Rebellion, a web page about strong point espresso that she’s developing at the side of her boyfriend.

Cover image of the April + May 2024 19th Anniversary Issue

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